Thursday, January 29, 2009

Cairo gossip

My day got hijacked yet again, for trying to perform a simple task. But I found out a few interesting things that I'd post here for the Cairo crowd.

I was trying to book a flight to London for KC's 30th birthday in March. As usual, I made my reservation on EgyptAir by phone and prepared to go to the office in Tahrir to pay.

Oddly, a few months ago I got a call on my mobile from EgyptAir to tell me ... I dunno, something ... and at the end the guy mentioned that the Tahrir office might be closing soon. But they'd call me and let me know.

Incidentally, this is a great example of the sometimes oddly personal service one gets in Egypt.

So this morning while I was finishing the reservation, I specifically asked if the Tahrir office was still open. Oh yes madame, I was assured fervently. So I strapped on my walking shoes and headed downtown to pay.

I get to the Nile Hilton office in Tahrir, and what do I find? Torn up marquis and papered-over windows. I felt like screaming. Instead I asked a nearby security guard where the office was now. He said, "Adly street."

I responded, "Fyn sharia Adly?" Where is Adly Street? He gestured vaguely away from the hotel. Oh Christ, I thought.

***Pertinent Cairo Gossip 1 : The EgyptAir office outside the Nile Hilton is kaput.

A friendly-looking Egyptian gentleman offered to walk me over to the new office because he was headed there too. I said ok, but when we passed the next guards he flashed what looked suspiciously like a guiding id card. I stopped dead, and asked him where exactly we were heading. I did not want to end up spending the day in his brother's papyrus/alabaster/perfume shop.

When sufficiently detailed information was not forthcoming, I said goodbye and walked over to the yellow cab stand to get a ride over to the Mohandesin office of EgyptAir.
Link
During the drive over, the driver, who spoke refreshingly good English, told me that not only was the EgyptAir office there closed, but the hotel was no longer a Hilton and would be shutting down soon, possibly for renovations, but possibly for good. And sure enough, on our way back to Garden City, I noticed that the sign doesn't say "Nile Hilton" anymore, only "Nile Hotel."

***Pertinent Cairo Gossip 2 : The Nile Hilton is kaput too!

I think I've set foot in the Nile Hilton about twice, but in this country, any change is surprising.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

The Arab Mind

I went to a truly astounding meeting yesterday. I'd arranged the meeting for instructors of the course to exchange materials for the first weeks of classes, since we'd recently changed things up a bit.

I admit, I masterminded the scheduling of the meeting to fulfill my own evil agenda: to favor the inclusion of people who actually do work. You know. Responsible colleagues.

The usual crowd showed up, including an odd man out: a sociologist who for some reason has been teaching this core course for the past few years. He's one of these truly nice people who just doesn't do his job well - in my humble opinion, of course.

I think he's always seen me as an ally - he's invited me to some of his classes, and occasionally I go. I always leave completely perplexed. The students sit in his class like lumps (the ones that show up anyway) while he shows movie clip after movie clip. Granted, some of his points are intriguing ... but have absolutely nothing to do with the course he's supposed to be teaching. His exams consist of identifying which Garfield cartoon has to do with which "topic" he's discussed in class. If our courses didn't have the same number in the catalog, I'd never guess it was supposed to be the same course!

Incidentally, I strongly object to using movies and science fiction stories as the reading material for a course with the word "scientific" in the title. But I'm completely unreasonable that way.

So during this meeting yesterday we were basically on track for about 80% of the meeting - the agenda hijackers didn't show up. And then suddenly everything got derailed, beginning with my (ill-founded) attempts to actually show professional courtesy to the odd man out and listen to his plans. He'd begun by exposing an ignorance of all the changes that'd been made in the course - all of which were detailed in a series of emails and documents sent out by the course coordinator in the past few days.

Strike one.

What follows is a paraphrased memory of the course of the conversation ....

Odd man out : I like to do a unit on the Arab mind. I show my students how the Arab mind is no good at science, because the Arab mind is always looking for an underlying meaning of things.

(OMO is Kuwaiti)

[long pause, and Strike two]

American colleague 1 : Do you have any idea what would happen if American colleague 2 or AmC3, or I tried to teach that?

Egyptian colleague 1 : You can't be serious. What does this have to do with this course? And you can't be serious.

OMO: I'll give you an example. I wanted to cross the street with a friend. We could either use the underground or run through traffic. But my friend refused to use the underground because it was a metaphorical tunnel without a light. Perfect example of the Arab mind.

[long pause]

EC2 [muttered] : Oh my God.

EC1 : Are you serious? You're an Arab! So you suffer from this Arab mind!

OMO : Oh, no. I was born in England.

[Strike three]

[EC2, stunningly, explodes into shouting, as EC1 exclaims indignantly]

The meeting adjourned a few minutes later. OMO pulled me aside and gave me a long sob story about why he was completely unprepared for the semester. I looked at him and thought, "You didn't do your job. That's all I need to know."

Ah, the American mind.

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Bait for spybots

I'm currently reading this great piece in the NYT about Egypt's political blogging scene.

I think I've written more than once in this blog about how interesting it is, to watch the Egyptian people coming around to the idea that they don't have to take it anymore.

I'm especially interested by this account of the April 6 protests last year. I remember being pissed off that I had to cancel class, because my students warned me about this:
When Rashid headed out toward Tahrir Square, she was shocked to see police and military vehicles blocking off streets; soldiers and police officers, it seemed, were everywhere. As Rashid approached the Kentucky Fried Chicken, she found it was surrounded by police.

The old AUC campus is in Tahrir Square; my old office was across the street from the KFC. I didn't go to work that day.

I'm typing carefully here, because I don't feel like going to jail. You know, tonight. Hopefully they've got bigger fish to fry.

And I've noticed this too, and it's exciting:
But “Facebook revealed a liberal undercurrent in Egyptian society,” Nawara said. “In general, there’s this kind of apathy, a sense that there is nothing we can do to change the situation. But with Facebook you realize there are others who think alike and share the same ideals. You can find Islamists there, but it is really dominated by liberal voices.”

I like to think that this is true, that all my frustrations with Egypt and her people are just that - frustrations born of bad traffic, lousy internet service, and quarter-hours that last much longer.

A friend of mine ran a project bringing Egyptian bloggers to the US to blog about our election. Check it out - it's good stuff, and a great start.

Makes my blog look like the rantings of a self-possesed lunatic. ;)

Friday, January 23, 2009

Worst outcome

The next time you’re out with a group of companions (preferably of diverse ages, cultures, or socioeconomic backgrounds), play this game I invented during my trip to India with my parents.

Here’s how the game works:
1. Find a time when a group decision has to be made on how to proceed next, when there are multiple choices at hand.
2. Make a rapid mental calculation and come up with every permutation of future action.
3. Identify the worst possible choice. Use whatever rational metric you use every day to figure out what to do – rationality, time, expense, effort, etc. This is your “worst outcome.”
4. Sit back, listen to the group discussion, and wait for a decision.
5. Score yourself based on the match between your group’s choice and your “worst outcome.”
6. Argue for your rational choice – or just give up.

I am awesome at this game. Almost every time I was able to predict what my parents and relatives wanted to do based on my analysis of the worst outcome. Apparently my view of how the world works is in no way coincident with whatever view they have.

Example 1: I wanted to get some blouses made from the tailor next door before leaving the next morning for Mumbai. Admittedly, this was poor planning on my part – if I’d known that the tailor lived in the next house, I would’ve commissioned the clothes a few days earlier, when I first came to Ahmedabad. But I didn’t know, and my auntie told me it would be no trouble, as long as we got the materials to the tailor as quickly as possible. So my mom, my auntie and I needed to get to the fabric store, make our choices, then head straight for the tailor first thing in the morning (in Ahmedabad, this is around 11 am) so I could pick up the clothes in the evening. My father and his best friend wanted to take a walk around the campus of the local university they attended during the last Ice Age. However, the family’s cook was supposed to come by and make the meals for the day, and she wouldn’t come into the house if no one was there. So who should stay in the house and wait for the 20 minutes until the cook came?

[Take your time now to complete steps 2 and 3 above.]

Needless to say, the men decided that what we wanted to do wasn’t important, and they had to leave straight away for their stroll down memory lane. When we protested – pointing out the time sensitivity of our chores – a huge discussion ensued, with hand waving, multilingual yelling, and the men insisting on telling the cook (who has no mobile, and can’t read) just not to come. Because the men, naturally, were totally willing to pick up the cooking slack and make sure everything would be fine for the rest of the day.

Ahem. That last bit was sarcasm. Of course we women greeted their ridiculous proposition with mental asides on whether the men actually knew where the kitchen was.

My auntie finally resolved the impasse by wordlessly loading my mother and me into the car and driving away. Problem solved. We got the fabric to the tailor, the cook came on time, my dad and his friend took their walk, and I got my blouses. So what the hell was the BFD??

Example 2: My mom had forgotten her cell phone in the hotel in Mumbai, so I called, found the phone, and arranged to pick up the phone on the way back from the airport to my uncle’s flat, which is 5 minutes from the hotel. When I announced this to the group, well of course a huge discussion ensued.

[Take your time now to complete steps 2 and 3 above.]

My father decided to leave the airport, load all the luggage into the taxi, drive to my uncle’s flat, unload all the luggage and take it upstairs, relax in the flat, then find a second taxi, drive to the hotel and pick up the phone, find a third taxi, then return to the flat.

My solution? Stop at the hotel on the way to the flat, pick up the phone, and continue to my uncle’s place. One taxi, one fare, one trip, one 10-minute detour.

This time, I did step 6 by arguing. I managed to get an “agreement” – but then when it took the hotel awhile to bring the phone, my dad decided to leave my mom and me at the hotel and come back later because – and I’m not joking – the chocolate in his bag was melting. I endured a long discourse on my mental incompetency - and then, of course, 2 minutes after my dad left, the phone showed up. So my mom and I stood around on the street in Mumbai in 90 degree heat for half and hour while my uncle moved all the bags and came back for us. To add insult to injury, if I’d been 2 cm windward on the sidewalk, I would’ve been shat on by at least one pigeon.

I totally don’t understand how I came to this point. When did this break occur? Am I completely insane? Or is everyone else thoroughly nuts?

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Millions of mobiles, no wireless

From the tail end of my India trip ... all's well. I'm in Ahmedabad right now, heading back to Mumbai tomorrow, then back to Cairo in the wee hours of the 22nd.

I've spent the whole trip hauling my laptop around, looking for a wireless network I can use. I found a few open ones, but for some reason was totally unable to join any of them and transmit data. Ironic that the IT capital of the world has no usable wireless networks (usable by me, anyway, and isn't that all that matters?).

On the "important things" front, I've bought massive amounts of clothing. Glad I bought the big suitcase. And we had a nice time in Rajasthan, although I definitely have to come back sometime and give it a good few weeks - we only made it as far as Ranakpur!

Many observations to come on this blog, insha'allah. When I'm back to Cairo and actual internet connectivity.

[shiver]

I can't BELIEVE I just typed that.

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Tomorrow, hat trick

Late tomorrow night I'm going for my travel hat trick: I'm heading to India for 10 days.

With my parents.

[sigh]

Insha'allah everything will be splendid and I'll be grateful for this trip for the rest of my life. My parents are wonderful people and I love them very much.

We've already had the "I'm 30 years old and you guys both snore, I'm not sharing a room" talk. Didn't go smoothly, but I've got my own room waiting for me at the Marriott.

Tonight's conversation highlights:

"Be sure to bring some money." Nah, I thought I'd skip it this time.

"Do you think you can get to the hotel by yourself?" Yes, yes I do. I'm a big girl.

"We'll call you when we get in at midnight." Actually, don't. I intend to be sleeping.

For the past 3 weeks, my father has been giving me "travel tips," casting pearls before my swinish reluctance to paint myself as both inexperienced and an idiot. You know, things about toilet paper, and haggling, and taking taxis by myself. Things that I clearly have no experience doing on my own. Every day. In Egypt.

Keep your fingers crossed for me, dear readers, and send happy calming patient thoughts my way.

And gin. Lots of gin.

Gaza and Giza

KC and I were entering the club in the Nairobi airport when I picked up a newspaper.

"Israel's bombing Gaza???" I heard my voice sliding upwards. I turned the page.

"Land invasion imminent???" KC glanced at me. I turned the page.

"Israel bombed the Egyptian border???" The women at the desk stopped talking. I turned the page.

"Egypt is shooting at fleeing Palestinians???" I slammed the newspaper down on the desk.

"What the hell is going on???" KC grabbed the newspaper and me, and hustled me into the club where I could shout all I wanted. I spent the next hour reading accounts in British and Emirati newspapers, trying to make sense of what was going on. The British papers buried article continuations deep in their pages. The Arabs were printing pictures of baby corpses.

In either case, not exactly the objective reporting I was hoping for. And when we got back to Cairo on New Year's Eve, we found out that all events had been canceled "in solidarity with our Palestinian brothers." Also not a rational response ... first, I don't see how canceling fireworks sends a powerful political message, or helps people find drinking water. Also, if you suggest to an Egyptian that he's an Arab (like his Palestinian "brothers") you'll find yourself in the middle of a fistfight.

I don't have a television, I'm not a political scientist. I've spent the last year and a half pulling myself out of the cocoon the American media spins around us, insulating us from any objective view of the way things actually are in other places. If anything, I've learned that no issue is as simple as it's portrayed by CNN, and the more I learn about Islam, and Israel, and the Middle East, the more I realize there are no good guys, and way fewer real "bad" guys than we're led to believe.

When I come across articles like this one in the NYT, I'm not sure what to think. This writer is clearly here in Cairo, because his articles are always timely. It can be eerie to read an explanation of something that was a heated dinner topic the week before. But I don't notice any of the "somber, dark, dejected" looks on the street. There are a few black-and-red-edged banners hanging in the streets near my house (which I can't read), but that's the only change I see.

Granted, I live in a bubble. I live in a wealthy neighborhood with quite a few expats. And like I said, I don't have a TV. I search out news items every day for an update, but if I didn't do that, my life would just sail on as normal - il'hamdu'illeh.

Gaza and Giza ... a world of difference in that one little vowel.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Back Blog: Things I learned about Primates

So I said earlier that I don't think I actually learned much about Kenya while we were on safari.

Fortunately, though, I am trained to be a keen scientific observer of nature (blah blah blah) ... so I'll share a few thoughts about primates. We saw 3 types, smallest to largest: vervet monkeys, baboons, and chimpanzees.

Thought 1 - Baby monkeys are stupid:



Thought 2 : Baby monkeys are fussy.


Thought 3 : For some reason, mommy monkeys still love them.


Thought 4 : Primate teenagers are punks.


Thought 5 : Chimpanzees like somersaults.


Thought 6 : Baboons like nice cars too.


Thought 7 : Primates and humans are way more than 99% identical.

Fish out of water

You know what's a great change of pace? Attending a party full of people who are nothing like you.

Last night a friend and I attended a party across town. It was thrown by my dance teacher, who asked if we wanted to come hang out with the "salsa and dancing" crowd. I thought, sure - it's better than sitting around at home feeling sorry for myself because KC's gone.

I spent most of the night sitting quietly, watching. Partly this was sheer exhaustion, but it's also really hard to talk when the music is loud enough to properly dance to.

The best part for me, though, was watching the dancing. Men and women came in the door literally dancing, not even taking enough time to throw their bags down first. The music went back and forth between salsa and oriental, but it all added up to one thing : sex appeal.

I was struck by the contrast between this party and my usual social scene. My Indian buddies are the only ones I know who consistently bust a move at parties - hell, you can't hold the brown folks back! Everyone else drinks, laughs, jokes, argues, talks ... but dancing? Nope.

I found myself thinking, Wow, these people are dancers, and yet when they take a break, what do they do? Dance! I thought how lucky they are, to enjoy their jobs so much that when they play, they still do the same thing.

And then I thought really hard about most of the parties I go to, particularly with scientists. What happens when you put a bunch of scientists in a room? They talk about ... science. So it occurred to me that maybe the groups aren't that different after all. If you like what you do, you do it whenever you can.

I was also intrigued by the playful sexuality in the room. I suppose it was only pronounced to me by contrast - no one was dressed excessively (or minimally, for that matter). Most of the women wore flats or low heels, and everyone was dressed casually. And yet dancing is, by its nature, sexual - especially partner dancing like salsa. I watched a man untie his partner's scarf from her neck and retie it around her hips, to emphasize her movements. I tried to figure out an analogous move at an academic party, but drew a blank. Women scientists, in particular, aren't great ones for emphasizing their femininity, either deliberately or out of long years of immersion in the scientific culture.

A few years ago KC took me to the MIT alumni Christmas party in Princeton. It was a relatively small affair, full of luminous academics. I was going through one of my grad school "I hate everyone" phases where I particularly enjoyed behaving badly in public. So I put on a sleeveless, tight pink cashmere sweater, a short leather skirt, and my three-inch-heel leather hooker boots. Our hostess greeter us at the foyer, air-kissed my cheeks, and said, "What a lovely top! Did you get that at Ann Taylor?" I felt like I'd been hit right between the eyes - because, of course, I had bought it at Ann Taylor. Rebel, deflated.

I spent most of last night's party lounging on the couch with a glass of wine, chatting with people who came near, and watching the dancing. I danced for about 30 seconds myself, but I was so horribly self-conscious that I just couldn't enjoy myself. I don't know how to salsa dance at all, and when I found out who some of the guests were, I really didn't want to use any of my new belly moves.

Not that anyone even looked at me ... they were all too busy having fun. But this fish was certainly out of water.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

On my own again

I'm on my own again ... KC left for the US this morning. Despite a colossal cock-up by the university (namely, no car), I think he managed to make it to the airport.

At least, his plane has left, and my cell phone hasn't rung. So I'm making a massive assumption, really.

While he was here we went to Kenya and Siwa, he finally got to see the Nilometer, we tried the steak and sushi buffet at the Four Seasons with some friends, and we managed to get a table at Sequoiya last night.

Not bad, really. Not bad at all.

Saturday, January 3, 2009

On the roof in Siwa

All's well ... we had a smashing time in Kenya, although I'm not sure we actually learned anything about Kenyan culture, history, food, or its people. But the animals were awesome. A few highlights: KC got stung by a bee; we got charged by a buffalo; we had several very close encounters with lions; we petted a rhino; we kissed giraffes.

Then we returned to Cairo, and 36 hours later we were on a bus to Siwa. We're in Siwa right now, just finishing our first full day here (yesterday was all travel). 

Today's highlights involve a 20 km bike ride, an oracle, a possible millionaire, and a dwarf tok-tok driver.

I can't make this stuff up.