Friday, August 22, 2008

Back in the nuthouse

Ugh. I feel like death warmed over. Why is the jet-lag so much worse coming in this direction?

Yes, I'm back safe and sound in Cairo. Transit was basically fine, no serious debacles, reroutes, or security issues. I'm really starting to think it's only the US transport system that's in the toilet.

Yesterday (was it only yesterday????) the stewardess came on over the intercom and announced in Lufthansan accents that we'd be passing over the "pie-ra-meeds." Once I deconvoluted that statement, I thought, No way. How many times have I flown into this airport? Never once have I seen the pyramids!

On our way to Sharm last year we did fly north out of Cairo and we passed all four sets of pyramids, which was super cool. But coming in internationally, I've seen nary a pyramid in the last year.

So imagine my shock when my rowmate (a Canadian running a school here) leaned across me, pointed, and said, "Hey, we are over Giza!" I glanced down and promptly banged my head against the glass.

We flew straight between Khufu's and Khafre's pyramids - the two big ones - and I held my breath as Menkaure's pyramid obligingly popped into view from behind our wing. I could not believe that we were so close to them!

I've been grumbling a lot lately about having to take guests to the pyramids so many times. And believe me, I'm not about to go running off to Giza any time soon. But flying a scant 1000 feet or so over the last Ancient Wonder really brought it back to me. The wonder, that is.

I'm settling back in - Cairo traffic yesterday was just what I'd expected. My apartment was sparkling clean, waiting for me, and my internet connection (knock on wood) seems to performing mightily. I was happy to be back here - is this home yet? What does that really mean?

I sat awake between 2 am and 5 am, trying to fight the jet-lag but failing miserably. I'd set my alarm for 8:30, and I remember it going off, but when I got out of bed this morning, somehow it was already 11 am.

Now it's about 4:30 and I know I'm back in the nuthouse. This morning I bought tickets to fly to Sharm so I can squeeze in a dive trip in Dahab before the semester starts. My friend Kaddee and her husband rented a house there, so I'm planning to mooch off them.

Excrutiatingly long story short, I booked the tickets ok (I even saved LE 100!), but then made the catastrophic mistake of planning to drop by the Zamalek EgyptAir branch on my way to the supermarket. I spent about an hour walking up and down 26th July street, dodging cars, asking passersby for help, and frantically calling the office. In an incredible coincidence, their phone number "stopped working" the third time I called - I bet they just took the phone off the hook. It turns out the "Zamalek" branch is actually in Mohandessin - kudos to the people at Diwan bookstore for saving the day. Rather than go back to Tahrir, I took another 2 cab rides and ended up getting the damned tickets. I was almost in tears by the end of the thing.

But I perked up at Alfa, because Ramadan starts week after next and the market was stuffed with goodies. I finally bought a fanoos - a special lamp for Ramadan. I was sorely tempted by the big cheap ones, but in the end I purchased a tiny beaded lamp that unfortunately doesn't light up. I might go back and buy one of the kind that plugs in - Cairenes take note, upstairs at the front of the store they've got some hemp-and-tentmakers-cloth lamps with colored glass panes that light up. Not cheap, but a nice alternative to the plastic ones. They also have some lovely woven baskets also containing tentmakers' cloth - I'm now the proud owner of two, and I might go back. Christmas gifts, perhaps?

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