My return trip on the direct EgyptAir flight went pretty well. Getting to JFK is such a hassle for me, but it's not the end of the world. And it's definitely nice knowing that my checked bags are likely to end up in Egypt at the same time I do. Not guaranteed, by any means, but the odds are better.
We left JFK about 10 minutes late and landed about 40 minutes early. We came right off the plane and waited (and waited ....) for our bags. At the end of things, we had our bags in hand about 5 minutes after our scheduled arrival time! So once again, the most efficient air service I have experienced since September 11 was on EgyptAir.
After a few hours in my surprisingly cold apartment, KC said, "It sounds like it's raining." I responded, with my typical aplomb, "That's totally ridiculous, this is ...." And then I stopped. And opened the shutters.
Sure enough, rain pouring from the skies! That's twice since I've been here! To my chagrin, we ended up walking through the rain with some friends to our neighborhood lebanese restaurant. Cairo absolutely cannot handle the infrequent rains - the sewage systems back up almost instantly, flooding the streets with stinky water.
Yesterday we schlepped all over Zamalek trying to find a French press and a hair dryer - both of which I've seen before at the grocery store I frequent. Alfa Market was out of French presses (OUT???) and the guy tried very cheerfully to sell me a milk foamer instead. In the appliances section there was a hair dryer box, but no actual hair dryers ("Mafish hair dryers! Mafish!"). I don't know why these things continue to surprise me. I must be a slow learner. Very slow.
My parents arrive tomorrow for their two-week visit. On the 15th we're heading to Upper Egypt to cruise down the Nile between Aswan and Luxor. I'm really looking forward to this trip - it's a life trip for me, something I've always wanted to do.
Originally, KC and I had planned to rent a felucca and spend a couple days at our own pace, without the hooplah, the cruise food, and, well, other Americans. Back in the fall we were lucky enough to have iftar with an Egyptian friend of ours and his family. At one point during dinner, his father began expostulating on the foolishness of foreigners.
"I mean these people are crazy! Crazy! Can you imagine, this girl wanted to rent a felucca to go up the Nile?"
An uncomfortable silence followed. Finally, attempting to appear casual, I ventured, "What's so crazy about renting a felucca?"
The father fixed me with the dagger points of his eyes. His finger jabbed the air with every piece of evidence he drew forth: "You have to go to the bathroom over the side of the boat! The blankets are full of bugs! You don't know who the crew are! They could be thieves!"
None of these struck me as particularly compelling reasons to forgo such a great opportunity. But then the father delivered the coup de grace.
"Besides, the tourist police go through all the feluccas and throw the foreigners out."
Ah.
So, Presidential Nile Cruises it is for us. Some other AUCans have taken the cruise and say good things about it. I guess there are worse compromises to make.
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